1. Is
it hard to shrinkwrap?
Not at all!
shrinkwrapping is a series of logical steps mixed with common sense. We request that you watch the Dr. Shrink “Wrap It Up” training CD at least twice
before shrinkwrapping and also evaluate the weather if you will be shrikwrapping
outside.
2. What
about moisture and mildew under the cover?
Every shrinkwrap cover must be ventilated to
eliminate moisture and condensation under the cover. Our self-adhesive vent allows cross
flow ventilation throughout the cover minimizing chances of excess moisture and
mildew. The number of vents will vary
according to boat size, but a minimum would be 3 vents for runabouts and up to
8+ vents for boats 34 feet and above.
Cabins and seat cushions may also be left open to help stimulate
ventilation.
3. How do I make a support structure under the cover so rain and snow
won’t rest on it?
Support structures are very important under shrinkwrap
storage covers. The “Wrap It Up” CD will guide you
step-by-step in the construction of a woven cord strapping and wooden upright
support system. These simple, yet
effective supports give the cover enough slope and strength so that snow and
rain will run off.
4. Can the heat from the heat tool cause damage?
The propane fired heat tools used in shrinkwrapping
must be used in accordance with the directions in the “Wrap It Up” CD. Always
remember Safety First!! The CD will explain how heat is swept over
the cover, almost like spray painting, and is never left on one spot long
enough to damage vinyl graphics, paint, gelcoat, wood, etc. In fact, the shrinkwrap will become thin and
holes will form before enough heat is transferred to damage the boat. If the shrinkwrap should get a burn hole, and
it appears the wrap is stuck to the boat, leave the wrap cool and it will come
loose by itself.
5. How do I repair tear or melt holes in the cover?
First, holes are not rare in shrinkwrap covers. It is very easy to puncture the material
before it is shrunk; conversely, it is easy to repair holes. If it is a small hole a piece of heat shrink
tape will fix it quickly. If it is a
larger hole, a scrap of shrinkwrap approximately 3” larger than the hole may be
taped on the original cover and lightly shrunk.
6. How do I measure and find the right size shrinkwrap for my
products?
Measure from the center of your vessel, at the highest
point, over the side and down at least 8” below the rubrail (for example, on a
powerboat with arch measure from the center of the arch down below the
rubrail). Now double that figure and add
on 1’ for the shrinkwrap which will be tucked under the perimeter band.
7. Is there any way I can get technical assistance as I begin
shrinkwrapping or when I run into an unusual product?
Yes, Shrinkit, Inc. may be contacted at 800.227.3998,
from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Monday through Saturday,
when you have questions or comments about shrinkwrapping. They can guide you through the basics of
wrapping or help with that special job.
Shrinkit, Inc. may also be contacted via email by clicking here.
8. If I am transporting a product, should I attach the cover
differently?
Definitely.
Transportation covers need no support structure, just a couple of straps
running fore and aft under the shrinkwrap to give it support as it travels down
the road. Also, a very good way of
holding the shrinkwrap to the hull is by taping it on using our preservation tape. This tape leaves no adhesive residue and
keeps wind from blowing under the cover which may cause chafing or loss of the
shrinkwrap.
9. What color shrinkwrap should I use?
Is there a difference?
Shrinkwrap comes in white and clear. For southern climates white reflects heat and
keeps covered boats cooler. Clear
shrinkwrap should only be used on boats during the winter months. It absorbs a lot of heat which can damage
boat interiors. If you use clear wrap
always over ventilate. Also, if you are
showing boats or working on them white should be the color of choice. It provides excellent shadow-free lighting
and perfect color rendition.